Preserving Taiwanese Heritage Through Food
雙口呂 (Siang kháu Lū, in Hokkien) is a Taiwanese cultural kitchen located inside a beautifully restored courtyard house, brought back to life by husband and wife team, Pei Yi and Teng Wei. At a time when traditional Taiwanese foods risk fading away as younger generations opt for trendy Western foods, they share their 阿嬤’s (Ā-má, Taiwanese for grandmother) recipes and the stories that come with them.
Each year when we return to Taipei, we stay in a studio that overlooks an abandoned courtyard house, known as a 三合院 (sān hé yuàn, in Mandarin). With every visit, the grass grows taller, slowly swallowing the wooden door and brick walls. From the moment I first saw this building, I became obsessed with Taiwan’s traditional courtyard houses. So when I heard about cooking classes held in one, I knew we had to go.
A Tribute to Ā-má
The name Siang kháu Lū, is a tribute to the founder’s Ā-má whose surname is 呂 (Lū). The character 呂 is made up of two “mouth” (口) characters stacked together—hence, “Double Mouth Lū.” The celebrates the way Taiwanese stories, language, and food are passed down from one generation to the next, from one mouth to another. For many overseas Taiwanese like myself, Ā-má is the thread that ties us to our heritage.
At Siang kháu Lū, we took a class on making 紅龜粿 (Âng-kû-kóe, in Hokkien), or red turtle cakes. These chewy red cakes always remind me of my Ā-má and the years I spent with her. I have so few photos, and the memories fade faster each year. These red turtle cakes no longer remind me only of my Ā-má; now they carry the memories I’m making with my kids. One day, I hope they’ll see these cakes and think of the time we spent together, and feel their own connection to Taiwan.
Making Memories with Red Turtle Cakes
At Siang kháu Lū, we took a class on making 紅龜粿 (Âng-kû-kóe, in Hokkien), or red turtle cakes. These chewy red cakes always remind me of my Ā-má and the years I spent with her. I have so few photos, and the memories fade faster each year. These red turtle cakes no longer remind me only of my Ā-má, now they carry the memories I’m making with my kids. One day, I hope they’ll see these cakes and think of the time we spent together, and feel their connection to Taiwan.
The kitchen was just the right size for our group of eight. I love the modern white cooktop, contrasting with the exposed concrete and weathered wood beams. With steam billowing from the aged brick stove, we gathered to share stories about what these traditional treats meant to each of us.
My cousin’s wife and son had joined us for the class. She told us how, as a child, her Ā-má used to make turtle cakes to sell at the morning market, and how she grew up in a courtyard house much like the one we were standing in. Another mom visiting from Singapore shared how nostalgic these cakes are for her, and how they’re more than just food, they are a symbol of Taiwanese culture and identity.
Who knew something as simple as a turtle cake could hold so many memories?
Family Cooking Classes at Siang kháu Lū
The turtle cake class is the only parent-child activity at Siang kháu Lū. Perfect for family reunions, the class includes kid-friendly activities that help the whole family learn about Taiwan’s rice heritage and the special role these chewy cakes play in local traditions.
You can learn more about the classes in Chinese on their website, or continue reading for English.
Book your event as soon as you can because they sell out months in advance!
Class Guidelines
- Duration: 3 hours
- Group size: Minimum 8, maximum 16
- Age recommendation: Best for kids aged 6+
- Child participation rules: At least 6 attendees must be under 12
- For groups >10: At least 4 attendees must be under 12
Fees
NT$1,400 per person. Includes all attendees over age 3, including babysitters.
Location
Siang kháu Lū is located at 277號, Section 1, Nanxing Rd, Daxi District, Taoyuan City.
I recommend making it a day trip by stopping at Capybara Knight, a casual cafe with two gentle capybaras. Remember to make a reservation in advance to feed the animals. You can take the MRT blue line to Tucheng Station, then walk 7 minutes to the cafe.
After enjoying a coffee and treats at Capybara Knight, hail a cab to the Siang kháu Lū. The drive is about 25 minutes. If you have time, you can also visit Sanxia or Yingge Old Streets.
Our raw turtle cakes look like playdough, tinted pink from the red yeast. After steaming, the color is more subtle than the familiar red turtle cakes you’d find at traditional markets.
Most hawkers use red food dye and artificial banana flavoring for their eye-catching color and distinct scent.
Bring This Taiwanese Tradition Home
Remember to buy Siang kháu Lū’s organic rice flour if you plan to make the red turtle cake recipe at home. Their ingredients are sustainably sourced and support local farmers. I also treated myself to one of their beautiful single turtle molds for NT$2,580. A bit pricey, but I couldn’t resist! The following week, I found a vintage wooden mold at an antique shop for just NT$500. These two molds are the only souvenirs I brought home for myself from this trip. I love them!
How to Care For Your Wood Molds
New molds need to be prepped by soaking in bran oil or walnut oil. Coat in oil and wrap the mold in plastic wrap.
After use, wipe clean with a damp rag. Do not wash with soap.
Store as is or wrap in paper. Keep wood molds out of direct sunlight.
The Significance of Red Turtle Cake in Taiwanese Culture
In Taiwanese culture, turtles are symbols of wisdom and longevity, while red represents prosperity and good luck. Taiwanese eat red turtle cakes to celebrate religious holidays, weddings, and a baby’s first-month ceremony to bless their loved ones with a long and healthy life.
